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21. Emerald River blues. (June 19-21)

19 June 2018.

Early morning ride along the southern shore of lake Constance (Bodensee in German) which forms the border between Switzerland and Germany, was so calm after the turbulent river that feeds it, unlike me who woke up in the night with vertigo!

I was horrified of course, and so worried that I would not be able to ride.

Got up on my bike and off I went, no problems so long as I didn’t look up!



Very quiet little villages along the way, only builders and road workers to be seen. After an hour of looking out for a coffee bar, eventually pedalled up to a little bakery where two ladies and three dogs sat at my table and we chatted for a while. Gulped down a delicious hot croissant with a cappuccino.

Fantastic choice for bike rides here…

The cycling is going well, I’m getting better at ‘handling’ the bike, and can almost always manage a u-turn in a small street without falling over.
Zipped passed the ancient city of Constance, pity to miss the medieval part across the river, but went on to Stein-am-Rhine instead to see the frescoes.

A Chinese tour group were being herded by their guide, he was yelling at them to look at this look at that, and they all had their phones up to their faces taking photos of this and that.


The colour of the Rhine is singularly beautiful here, with its shifting emerald greens and turquoise greys. It mesmerises as it swirls along with surging whirlpools while sighing against its banks.

Such a joy to be riding with this enormously famous waterway. Beats washing windows at home.
After lunch in Schaffhausen (a delicious mango-curry-coco soup), I saw the falls at Neuhausen am Rheinfall… Apparently only eels manage to wiggle their way up these falls.


About the body, two noticeable changes happening now that I’ve reached 1500 kms. My hearing has improved, and my bum has lifted!

Arrived very tired at Waldshut-Tiengen to find my pre-booked motel room in an industrial zone, 3 kms away from any restaurant..

Todays ride – 100kms

Odometer 1510.9

average speed 18kph.


8 thoughts on “21. Emerald River blues. (June 19-21)

  1. You really need to write a book Leanne – this makes such wonderful reading. What an adventure. xxx

    1. I will give it a try Maggs, thanks xxx

  2. At Kussaberg close by there is a dear friend and excellent general physician, Dr Matcau. Are you passing through Krotzingen? There are friends who lived in Asia and retired there and are very welcoming!

    1. Unfortunately I have already passed Kussaberg, what a pity, I could have said hello! I am now already in Freiburg, spending an extra day for rest. The ride along the river was really beautiful, I see why your friends like it so much.

  3. Keep it up girl. Please post a google map it you get time so i can follow exact route. xxx

  4. It is such a joy reading your daily “report”😘😍😘😍😘

  5. Dear Leanne,
    total admiration!
    I love your trip, your attitude, the courage, the photos, the descriptions that I really wait every day, the spirit of adventure… I could go on and on…
    thank you very much for sharing all this with us, I’m total fan of you and when I talk about your experience with other people they all are enthusiastic and we are all with you!
    go on and keep making us part of all this, THANK YOU!!!!

    1. Oh thank you so much Gloria, you have no idea how much I appreciate your encouragement – brings tears to my eyes.

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